Garden Musings

MARILYN’S GARDEN MUSINGS

February, 2011

“Every gardener knows that under the cloak of winter lies a miracle . . . a seed waiting to sprout, a bulb opening to the light, a bud straining to unfurl.  And the anticipation nurtures our dream.”     Barbara Winkler

With the aftermath of our recent blizzard still lying many feet deep in places it may seem premature to think about planting seeds for flowers, vegetables and herbs.  However if you are one of those eager gardeners who is keen on fooling Mother Nature and on saving lots of money at the garden center later this spring there are several methods you can try to get an early start on growing your favorite plants and having them ready for transplanting in your garden at the optimal time.  There is something very satisfying and awe inspiring about growing any plant from a single seed.

First, you can sow seed indoors in any container with drainage holes in the bottom that has a clear plastic lid and is high enough to hold about three inches of sterile soil medium with room for the seedling to grow after germination.  Keep the planting medium moist to the touch but there should be no water standing in any collection trays.  Check directions on the seed packet for individual instructions for depth of planting and any other information provided.  As soon as the seeds sprout provide enough light to encourage strong, healthy growth.  Adjustable grow lights are helpful but not absolutely necessary if you have a bright room or window.  If using grow lights keep 2 – 3 inches above soil surface while seeds are germinating, then raise as needed as plants increase in size, lengthening exposure time to mimic the lengthening of natural daylight.  A fan to simulate natural air movement  will help to strengthen your plants.

Seeds of slow growing annuals such as ageratum, verbena, petunias, geraniums, coleus, impatiens and salvia may be started now indoors.  For vegetables plant broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and cabbage for transplanting in your garden at the proper time.

Move seedlings outdoors during warmer days with little wind (or in a sheltered spot) to acclimate, or “harden off” them to their eventual environment.  Place them in shade or partial shade (no direct sun) and bring them indoors before the nighttime temperature drops.  When the danger of frost is past plant your seedlings in your flower beds or vegetable garden.

Second, a coldframe is a protected plant bed used to provide shelter for tender perennials, to “harden off” seedling plants or to start cold tolerant plants such as pansies, cabbage or lettuce earlier than they can be started in open soil.

Basically, a coldframe is a rectangular box with the back higher than the front with the ideal slope from back to front being one inch per foot.  Coldframes can be inexpensively built with scrap lumber and old window sash as a cover.  The size of the sash will determine the size of the coldframe.  Another option for a cover is polyethylene stretched on a wooden frame.  Your coldframe should have a southern exposure to maximize natural sunlight.  Watch the temperature inside the frame and open the top to avoid overheating on warmer days.  A tarp or old blanket can be used as a cover if some extremely cold night temperatures are predicted.

Third, there is a new trend for early seed starting called “winter sowing” that involves starting seeds outdoors in the middle of winter using recyclables such as milk jugs, large soda bottles or other large food containers with clear or translucent lids.  Punch small holes in the top for ventilation and in the bottom for drainage.  Label containers with waterproof marker for later plant I.D.  Place at least 3 inches of moist sterile starting medium in the bottom of the container.  Sow seeds according to packet directions.  Tops of containers should be at least 2 – 3  inches above the soil to allow room for seedling growth.  Attach lids with duct tape, place outside.  Condensation should occur naturally but if needed keep soil slightly moist but not soggy.  Check the containers often.  Seeds will germinate naturally as weather warms. Increase ventilation or remove lids after germination if weather permits.  Transplant small seedlings into garden after germination, no “hardening off”  is needed.

This method works especially well for self-sowing varieties of annual flowers such as alyssum, gaillardia, petunia, portulaca, rudbeckia and viola as well as perennials:  digitalis, echinacia, flax, poppy, salvia, yarrow and most wildflowers.  Vegetable seeds that may be grown using this method are beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, peppers, lettuce, radish, tomatoes and winter squash.

So if you are one of those avid gardeners for whom the bright sunshine is a signal to get your hands in some dirt you just might want to try one of these early seed starting methods to get a jump start on a beautiful, productive and inexpensive garden.  You will undoubtedly have some successes and probably some failures but you will have the enjoyment of your accomplishments and the satisfaction of saving money at the garden center later this spring.

“If the sight of the blue skies fills you with joy, if a blade of grass springing up in the fields has power to move you, if the simple things of nature have a message that you understand, rejoice, for your soul is alive.”                                           Eleanora Duse

Submitted by Marilyn Rasmussen

Magic City Master Gardener